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Vintage Race Forum. Our system's symptoms met each of the requirements for a defective PDM. We ordered the right front door switch your left front door from a Mopar source. I replaced the one switch and solved all of our problems at the same time.
I also drive a 99 XJ and my passenger side power window has an issue. My first problem was the window lock failure that I was able to correct.
However, my front passenger side window switch operates in reverse: up makes the window go down and down makes the window go up. This is true for the switch on my drivers side master panel as well and only for that window. That's a new one, ehlinn. Read the legend at the bottom to distinguish your model type. Switches are different for various world markets.
I have a jeep cherokee xj. The windows will work with the door switches, but the door locks will not work. Testing the wires coming from the drivers door actuator we were able to find out that the Orange lock wire was grounded out somewhere. We found the problem and fixed it.
Still no luck. Nothing is working. When trying to test it at the wires by the actuator themselves it used to unlock the doors, but now lock and unlock won't work.
Please help. If I ground out the wires coming out of the drivers door actuator then I can use a power probe and unlock and lock all the doors just fine.
But the switches for the locks still won't work. Do I just need to replace the switch consoles? Or what? The problem with the lock wire was that a screw had gone through it.
I don't know if that helps or not. Sounds like a burned switch or switch relay now. The ground-out may have been a lower amperage short for a while before complete circuit failure. Try bypassing the switch s for the lock circuit with a jumper lead.
If the locks work properly with a jumper, then you know the problem is the switch itself. It's assumed that fuses are okay, right? These switches are not great to begin, there is also a relay in the right side switch know to stick or fail. Try the jumper approach first before spending money on the switch modules Scroll back up through this thread for a discussion of the switch functions and wiring circuits for power windows versus locks.
There is also a PDF with factory details. First of all I would like to say thank you for this gem of information! I would also like your opinion, I have a 99 XJ Sport with power windows, with the following issues, the rear windows can be controlled by the driver door controls but not the controls on the doors themselves, I believe this is from a faulty window lock sensor in the driver door and the passenger door seems to get intermittent power.
Most of the time neither the driver door or the passenger door can activate the window, until the stars align just properly and both the driver and passenger controls can control it normally. Then I drive a bit more and the connection loosens again somewhere. Any pointers on where I should begin my search? Thank you once again for all the information! Parked with the sun on the passenger side of the vehicle seems to trigger the issue.
The switch will begin working again properly when, as you share, the stars align. All will go fine for an indefinite period of time.
I believe this is a relay or electrical contact issue at this switch. A friend with a '98 replaced both driver and front passenger switch assemblies, and he's having good luck. The new switches are apparently not failsafe, though. Resistance anywhere can be an issue, reducing the voltage needed to close a relay or a switching circuit. As you hint, connections are a prospect. Note that the PDM right front door switch has circuits that tie to several other electrical circuits.
Direct factory explanation: "In its role as the power lock control module, the PDM receives inputs from the battery, the ignition switch, the DDM, the driver door ajar switch, the key-in ignition switch, and the headlamp switch.
The clue for me is that direct sun heat on the door can clearly affect the right front door switch's window function. This means that either the connections are weak, a relay sticks or the electrical wires or contacts at the switch have too much resistance.
When this sunlight issue occurs, the driver's door switch will activate the front passenger window without a problem, ruling out excessive window motor resistance. The lift cable and motor have been replaced. When heated, resistance rises and an "open" occurs. When the system works, it works flawlessly.
Currently, the right front window activates perfectly—whether the vehicle parks with sunlight on the door or not. If you're on a budget, try cleaning the switch connection plugs and contacts at both front door switches without bothering to replace any parts.
Do not scrape contacts with anything sharp. Simply clean the contacts with a high quality electrical spray contact cleaner that can remove debris and black surface oxidation.
The rear switches are a possibility, though they seem to act up less frequently and get used far less. If that's not a thorough fix, move to the driver's side control switch, which is costlier. Do one thing at a time to narrow down what actually cures the problem.
So I've been having some issues with my 98 Grand Cherokee. At first, the dash lights flickered in intensity. Then, when I moved the steering wheel, the headlights will go off. I've checked all fuses and battery voltage and everything seems fine. Any ideas? This sounds like a possible short in the steering column wiring circuit. The steering wheel movement should not affect these other systems unless there is a short to ground or open in the wiring or defect in the column switches or controls.
Has the steering wheel been removed? Are the switches, especially the turn signal switch, creating issues? Check the harness connector at the base of the steering column under the dash.
Unplug the connector and see whether this alleviates any symptoms The wheel movement is involved in a fault or open in the electrical system, and this is not a small matter, as there are a number of systems involved.
Points to a short to ground or high resistance including a poor connection in the wiring. On the XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler, there are a variety of troubles that trace to the plug-in connectors behind the instrument panel. I show the OE recommended repair that involves installing new plugs and leads behind the panel for the XJ Cherokee. Perhaps this is a trouble spot on your Grand Cherokee's system.
Concerned about the steering column involvement, but here is a place to start Before plunging too deeply, check for faulty system ground connections and battery terminal issues.
On a DC system, grounds and grounds resistance can be as important as positive feeds. Thank you so much for replying so quickly. So you think that the connector could have something to do with everything? It blows air, but never gets cold. But this could all be from that one connector? Not likely "only" the steering column connector, judging by the multiple troubles. Instruments and the door locks are unrelated to the steering column circuit feeds. The clutch should engage and spin the center of the unit.
Otherwise, you're not pumping refrigerant through the compressor. You may have a "global" problem. With a professional grade multi-meter, I would safely disconnect the battery cables from the battery and run a continuity test ohms resistance from the battery positive terminal to ground. If there is continuity, the hot side circuit has a short or leak to ground. I would also run an insulation resistance test at the positive lead. Check ohms resistance between the two disconnected battery cable terminals as well.
A pro meter can also induce non-destructive voltage and find a short through the insulation to ground or between wires. This could involve testing circuit wires in combinations or pairs if you suspect a short or voltage leak between wires within a harness like the steering column harness. The column connector would be a place to check for shorts between wires with both insulation resistance testing and a continuity test.
Unplug this connector and run these two tests between the plug contacts going into the steering column and also check between contacts on the plug side going away from the steering column both sides of the disconnected plug.
Caution: I would unplug the PCM leads when running the insulation resistance test on the overall system. I'm not confident that the PCM can handle the "non-destructive" meter induced voltage. No point in blowing out an electronic PCM component. Be sure to set the meter for the voltage range that is closest to 12VDC. For most pro meters, this is 50VDC.
That's plenty of non-destructive voltage for this test. Avoid pushing higher voltage through light gauge wire circuits. Even a defective battery cell test the battery or bad connections at the battery can create these troubles Check for shorts or high resistance opens or loose connections at the power distribution box.
There's too much resistance or a voltage leak somewhere, possibly a short or insulation leak in a major, common circuit You're not blowing fuses, or that would be a hard short to ground.
I'd start by looking for loose connections and poor grounds. Check the solenoid wire terminal junction at the starter motor, a loose connection s here can wreak havoc. If a ready issue does not show up and all of these diagnostics sound overwhelming, it might be worth a trip to the local automotive electrical shop that specializes in wiring troubles I found your article extremely helpful in laying out my troubleshooting tests.
However I can across a couple of videos on youtube who's process I am incorporating into the process. As my window and door lock problem is intermittent, a short seems more likely than the PDM. Steps being taken. Disconnect the wiring loom boot from the body and push it into the door to expose the wiring loom contained inside.
This prevents cutting of the protective boot and it can be re-used. Remove wiring loom fabric protective coating and examine wires for damage. There are one or two wires inside that have a hard plastic cover. Opening and closing of the door results in breakage at either end of this plastic sheath. Complete - Passenger side appears to be in good shape.
Repeat procedure on drivers side. It is degrees F here in Texas today and I don't have a garage to work in. Once wires are checked and or fixed it will be time to look at the inside of the DDM. I have found a common problem where the solder joints connecting the window lock out and door lock switches fail where they connect to the printed circuit board.
All connections on the circuit board will be re soldered for good measure. I just wanted to add those small parts about the solder joints being prone to failure and the known issue inside the wiring loom where the wires go between the body and the door, just in case it can help someone else find their issue. As for the rear wiper going off when I hit a bump I am at a loss on where to start with that. This is very valuable, Ken! Thanks for sharing and the commitment to a cure. Any light cast is worthwhile.
These problems can seem "global". Give it a week or two, it decides to work once more and often flawlessly for months. This is a clear sign of too much resistance, unlikely a full open. Worth mentioning is that the right side front window always opens and closes without a fuss— from the driver's side switch.
I'll check the Mopar switch thoroughly for sticky contacts or excessive resistance. Your comments and two photos are troubleshooting gems. I'll share my findings after pursuing your approach. I also want to run insulation resistance tests with non-destructive voltage. The passenger side front door module is the "brains", containing both relays and switches Due to a variety of reasons, fixing the power locks on my Cherokee Sport 4-door got moved to a low priority list.
Today I had to replace the the power window motor and regulator so I replaced the power lock module as well. We are good to go! I just spent a few hours over two days on an old problem with my XJ. Power locking is erratic, unlock is fine. Sometimes works fine for a few days, sometimes not at all for a month. Sometimes finally locks with pushes of power lock button.
Same problem right or left door. Same with remote. When pressing lock, it clicks all 5 servos but doesn't lock. I did replace the left DDM, since I had a window lock problem also. That problem is solved, now, but locking remains the same as the past few years. I've read info in a few forums, and completed the PDM continuity test and switch test.
I even went to the library to get a wiring diagram. Everything checks out, including the door ajar, key in test. It's so odd that it briefly clicks all 5 actuators briefly, but doesn't lock. I see the problem covered quite well here, but this seems a little different.
Any thoughts? I have replaced the right side switch on our '99 XJ 4-door and need to replace the driver's side. Acts fine for long periods, then the right front window will not go up or down from its own switch. You're getting a complete circuit but not enough amperage to close the solenoid switches. This could be a partially open hot lead or poor ground on that circuit. The issue is either too much resistance or a partial open.
Check ohms-resistance, insulation resistance and the voltage drop as you activate the door lock switch. I have a Cherokee Limited and I replaced the front door speakers, now after putting the door panels back on the locks won't work. They stay stuck in the lock position but the door doesn't actually lock. When I pull the panel off it will lock but once back together it stays stuck and won't move. Any suggestions??????
A basic ohms resistance test on individual wires and grounds or a non-destructive insulation resistance test can help if you need to take it that far. You would disconnect at the rear wiper switch and test wires in the circuit from there to the rear wiper motor.
A subtle issue can occur when a wiper motor's park mechanism has a short. If so, the jarring could trigger the park mechanism to swipe the wiper, though this would not turn the wiper fully on. The wiper would simply go through a sweep cycle and park. Just updating on my post of May 5. Tested voltages and grounds, all OK. Finally gave up and bought a new PDM.
IT's cured. I suspect one of the relays in the PDM was going bad, or had a bad solder joint. Good job, ropot! You nailed it without wasting money on excess parts replacing. The PDM does affect both front switch door functions, and I also had good success with this approach on the '99 XJ four-door. I applaud those members who are willing to get out the rosin core solder and a pinpoint soldering iron to repair bad solder joints either at or near the printed circuit boards.
That's somewhat cost effective and an actual upgrade over known OE parts that fail. RHD models, in particular, have outrageously expensive replacement modules! Thanks to each of the members who have shared troubleshooting and repair solutions for these common XJ Cherokee problems.
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